Scanned from the book "Decades of Fashion".
May 24, 2014 - "The long, white evening gown by Norman Hartnell, 1924, might well have been aimed at the debutante market, Classical drapery would be taken up again as a trend in the 1930s by Madeleine Vionnet." (Via Fripperies and Fobs Tumblr. Hartnell would surely have lost the patronage of the three Queens, along with the strings of old duchesses who came to his salon to be fitted and sat there chatting all afternoon, as they had nothing better to do.
Hartnell had already had substantial American sales to various shops and copyists, a lucrative source of income to all designers. He also made terrible mistakes — such as cancelling a trip to the U.S. when invited to a prestigious fashion award: the perceived snub meant that he would never be able to break into the American market.When the bailiffs were about to arrive to remove his furniture, Hartnell wrote a desperate letter to the Prime Minister Harold Wilson, begging for his help to rescue a great British name. Royal Collection.Evening gown, by Sir Norman Hartnell, 1960. Silk, crystals, sequins, diamanté, beads. At the request of the Queen, the final design had the similar 'sweet-heart' neckline used for Her Majesty's wedding dress in 1947, the fuller skirt with heavy, soft folds of silk embellished with varied embroideries, including the depiction of the national botanical emblems of the U… There was going to be a This Is Your Life programme about him in 1960, but it was withdrawn at the last minute when Norman found out he was to be the subject.A startling incident described in the prologue makes you see why he might have preferred not to talk about his private life on television.Late one evening in 1948, the prim-and-proper bookkeeper at Norman Hartnell Ltd, Miss Ivy Godley, returned to the offices in Mayfair, because she thought she'd left the safe unlocked.She was surprised to find the door ajar, and even more surprised to find, sitting near the telephonist's table, a figure resplendent in a sparkling evening dress with embroidered crinoline skirt. These were then discussed with the Queen. Princess Margaret (whose wedding dress he designed) used to sneak in through the back entrance.During his career, Norman, who once created uniforms for Selfridges lift girls, designed a range of stylish outfits for womenAmong his famous clients were model Sally Jamieson (left), who wore a gold dress designed by Norman Hartnell in 1964 (left) and English actress Elsie Randolph (right) who wore another of Norman's creations in 1924The Duchess of Kent used to borrow gowns free of charge and return them worse for wear. Norman Hartnell’s fashion sketches for the young Elizabeth 11- From his jaw dropping engagement dress worn by the young Princess Elizabeth in 1948 to the 1953 Coronation dress and beyond, the name Norman Hartnell was synonymous with Royal glamour.
The first chapter of this book is called 'Crown & Sceptre'.
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